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Lymond (author) from UK on August 31, 2016: When I maintenance my car and close the app (RR3) and open the app again, it wont maintenance and I have to do it again. You'll need to make sure the back up is current as sometimes the cloud doesn't save if you don't have enough progress since the previous save. Lymond (author) from UK on October 19, 2016:Īre you force quitting the app or closing it in the way it was intended? If you're closing it in the way it was intended, I'd make a cloud save backup and re-install the app, then re-apply your profile from the cloud backup. You’ll totally trash the car but only at the expense of the last bar or so of conditioning.

Try to run the car down to 0 or 1 bars of condition above degrading the car performance then go for the longest, most rugged race you have.

A drag race, speedsnap and autocross are usually short races and will cost you 1 to 2 ‘bars’ of car condition.

Melbourne seems to be the exception here, possibly because it’s impossible to be ‘off-track’ on account of the barriers.

A 4 lap race will usually cost you most or all of the car.

1 lap will cost about 1/3rd of the car and a clean 3 lap race is easily possible without requiring maintenance afterwards.

In this way, you’ll get one more race out of a car before you put it in for maintenance. You can’t ‘lose’ the race so it doesn’t really matter how quick you do them.

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Run in-event time trial tracks with damaged cars.Here are some tips to get the most out of a car before each maintenance cycle: This means that if a car is available in a sub-series that you have access to and is a car that you would unlock as the first car in another main series, you are better pursuing the car in the subseries.Ĭar maintenance will be the biggest drag on your time. Sometimes the 20% unlock bonus does not appear when the car is bought as part of a new series. Tip: You are better off unlocking a car mid-series than by unlocking a car by unlocking a new series. If you know the cost, you can avoid unlocking the car until you have either the cash or the gold to buy it.

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You can look up the cost of any car on the Wikipedia page of full car information here. This is very important if you are to take full advantage of the 20% unlock bonus. Saving up 20% of 150 gold is a lot less than saving up 20% of 1000 gold because you couldn't afford the more expensive car.

it belongs to a sub-series or isn't specifically required to get to the next level up) you're probably better off hoarding the gold you would have spent in order to buy cars that you must have to get to the next level.

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If you don't need the car to progress the series (i.e. These special discounts also include cars which you already own and cars which you haven't yet unlocked and therefore can't take advantage of in either case.Īlthough better than the full price, you should think very carefully about accepting the 20% off if the car costs gold. RR3 does occasionally put up better discounts on cars but it tends to be in the region of one or two a month. When you first unlock a car in a series, you are immediately offered a 20% discount bonus regardless of whether the car costs cash or gold. When you start getting to high-end cars there are two costing over 1000 each and another three or four at close to that.

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The McLaren MP4-12c will cost you 65 gold to buy and a further 72 in gold (minimum) to fully upgrade as well as the cash for the lower end upgrades. Many of the final upgrades to cars are also only in gold.

Hyundai 120 WRC – 119 gold for upgrades to get the PR high enough to race.

Maserati Granturismo MC Stradale – 360 gold.

I’m looking at the following bill for cars in gold just now:

To put it in some perspective, because I’m not an obsessive player, I’ve missed some of the offers that allow you to win the cars.